Italy for Grownups

Some of the most spectacular artworks in Rome are hidden in places you would never imagine.  For example, Caravaggio, (Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio born in 1571) master of the chiaroscuro technique, has works in places that are quiet, require no reservation and can be seen without any entrance fees. 

You can admire his paintings in the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, (Piazza del Popolo 12) underground stop of Flaminio, the church of San Luigi dei Francesi, (Piazza San Luigi dei Francesi, 5), and the Church of Saint Agostino (Piazza Saint Agostino). 

It’s pleasurable to be able to view these paintings away from the crowds and the noise of mass tourism.

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio better known as “Caravaggio” was obscured by the better-known homonymous Michelangelo Buonarroti.

Caravaggio is known for his “chiaroscuro” technique used in all of his paintings, a technique that gives a dramatic cut to his work. In the Cerasi chapel, in the Santa Maria del Popolo church there is the “Conversion of Saint Paul” painting, the horse painted by Caravaggio is considered the best painted horse ever done by any artist in the world.

Caravaggio was considered an extravagant, rebellious, enigmatic and fascinating person. His career started in Rome around 1600 and never lacked business thereafter. Always looking for a fight, he traveled with a sword in his belt at all times. He had to flee Rome in1606 after he killed a man following one of his many arguments. He took residence in Malta, but in 1608 he quickly had to run away after another incident. After arriving in Naples in 1609 somebody attempted to take his life and in 1610 he was dead after a short and intense career.

Forgotten for a couple of centuries, his importance and contribution to western art has been recognized and appreciated since the early 20^th Century.

Consider doing as the Romans do, search out artworks found in Rome’s lesser-known churches.

Since the 15^th Century, the Osteria del Fico Vecchio (Old Fig Restaurant) has been owned and operated by the same family.  The new generation of proprietors learns from the previous and  continues to serve the authentic regional fare that has made it famous among travelers and locals alike. Located in the small village of Grottaferrata, or the Colli Albani, better known as the Colline Romane  to the locals, it remains off the grid for the “Kodak moment” traveling crowds. This is a place that shouldn’t be missed by the more attentive tourist and visitor who wants Roman hospitality and cuisine with  authenticity and quality outside of the Eternal City walls.

This area, just about 45 minutes south of Rome, even in the worst traffic, is very popular among movie directors, stars (famous and not-so-famous), and many other people involved in the movie making business, partly due to its proximity to the Italian movie studios of Cinecittà  which can be easily seen from the top of the hills. As a matter of fact, the late Federico Fellini was a regular at this popular eating place and now even James Bond (Sean Connery) makes frequent stops there while in Rome.

Claudio Ciocca, movie actor, gourmet host, storyteller, and a real local character, greets the restaurant guests with the graciousness and confidence of the host that welcomes friends coming to his house for a visit or just to see how Aunt Maria is doing.

His way of suggesting menu items and the skill with which he describes his culinary selections is never pushy, but sooo convincing,  that if he tells you to taste his fresh Ricotta or to drink the Shiraz-Merlot house wine, you will always be grateful you listened to him.

Just to comment on the wine; it is amazing how that red wine, a rare find in an all-white production area can match so splendidly with anything you would eat there. It was soft, fruity - from cherry to plum, - from fig to almond, a perfectly balanced wine for the entire meal.

Finally, if he tells you to try  Gnocchetti with Taleggio and Tartufo (Gnocchi with Taleggio cheese and truffles) listen to him; you may never have another chance to taste such heavenly food.

I just returned from a trip to Italy and a tour of the Calabria region, a region that is still an undiscovered one. Sandwiched between the well known Sicily and the Campania Amalfi Coast, Calabria brings happiness to tourists from Italy and Northern Europe in search of great food, excellent wines, plenty of sun and fine white-sand beaches. It’s still virgin territory.

On the Tyrrhenian side the rocky and fretted coast where Ulysses crashed attracted by the singing of sirens offers a rugged beautiful view from Capo Vaticano (southernmost point) up to the gulf of Policastro (northernmost point). On the Ionian side the white sandy beaches offer a great place for the sun worshippers and some of the best wines in the region.

The gastronomy of Calabria is a complete different chapter from the gastronomy of the rest of Italy. They make large use of the products from the land: fresh vegetables, kid meat, fresh fruit, cured meats, home-made pastas.

Red pepper is one of the main ingredients of the Cucina Calabrese; they even make desserts with it. A separate chapter should be written about their soppressata a unique cured meat that takes its unmatchable taste from a combination of factors that can be found only in Calabria. First the rep pepper, then the pork meat from a breed of pigs that can be found only on the Aspromonte Mountain Range that stretches, like a backbone for the entire length of toe Calabria, and the air temperature that is so perfect and steady throughout the winter season.

Oranges, kiwis and figs are the other used products that can be found in the region at very inexpensive prices.

A separate chapter needs to be written about the wine production.

The territory is 98% mountainous with the ranges of Sila on the northern part and the Aspromonte on the southern part or the tip of the Italian boot. The unique climate comes from the location between the two seas producing mild winters (it was in the low 50s a few days ago) with very hot and dry summers that can easily reach the 100° mark.

Two major airports are at disposal for travelers: Reggio Calabria on the extreme southern point with service from Rome and Milan, also from Venice, Bari , Bologna, Turin. Lamezia Terme airport has service from all major European gateways, including London-Stansted with Ryan Air. If you like to drive, you can reach Calabria by the Autostrada Salerno-Reggio Calabria, or by train. Bus services are available from some European capitals.